The Tabard and Contemporary Fashion - part 3 of 3
- vmramshur
- Apr 6
- 4 min read
Updated: Apr 7
Couture and contemporary designers often return to the tabard—a sleeveless, open-sided garment—for its simplicity, versatility, and deep historical roots. Here's why this shape keeps reappearing across centuries and styles:
1. Minimalist Structure, Maximum Impact
The tabard’s basic form acts as a blank canvas. With no sleeves and open sides, it allows for dramatic silhouettes, layering, and movement—without complex tailoring.
2. Rich Historical and Symbolic Resonance
As previously discussed the tabard was tied to medieval, religious, and military dress, the tabard evokes strength, protection, and ceremonial authority. Designers love its connection to armor and heraldry.
3. Gender Fluidity and Modern Appeal
With its unisex shape, the tabard naturally aligns with gender-neutral fashion trends. It adapts easily across identities, body types, and styling approaches.
4. Endless Layering Potential
The open sides are ideal for creative layering. Designers use the tabard to explore volume, proportion, and architectural shapes while maintaining fluidity and ease.
5. Material Play
Its simple cut encourages bold material choices—think structured leathers, chainmail, and brocades, or soft knits and silks. Some designers even incorporate tech like LED textiles or sustainable fibers.
6. Cultural and Conceptual Echoes
The tabard connects designers to medieval romanticism, historical fantasy, and futuristic dystopias. Collections by Alexander McQueen (armor-like couture), Rick Owens (monastic minimalism), and Iris van Herpen (sculptural futurism) all pay homage to the tabard’s silhouette.
7. Practicality Meets Style
Tabards are functional. Today, they show up everywhere—from streetwear vests to ornate, embroidered couture pieces. The design lends itself to festival wear, workwear, and even sportswear.
Fashion History Glimpses
The tabard silhouette has quietly woven its way through fashion history, often reemerging in new forms:
1920s: Beaded sheath dresses embodied the straight, sleeveless elegance of the tabard.
Fortuny Tabard Dresses worn over tunic dresses from the Fortuny Museum in Venice, Italy and The Met Museum
1940's-60's Knits ponchos and capes reintroduced open-sided silhouettes with a new twist.
1970s: The tabard made a comeback through homespun crochet designs and hand-knit vests, embodying the back-to-the-land style.
1990s–2000s: Designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier and Alexander McQueen adopted medieval tabard silhouettes in their ready-to-wear and couture collections.
Today: The style is flourishing once more on Etsy and within indie fashion communities, as knitwear designers create sideless vests and sleeveless sweaters with side ties—essentially modern tabards under a different name.
Whether it’s structured tailoring or slouchy knitwear, tabards appear again and again for a reason—they’re cool in summer, warm in winter, and timelessly stylish.
Designers Who Love the Tabard
Here’s a roundup of designers from the last 40 years who've reinvented the tabard or used as inspiration in various collections
Couture and Luxury
Christian Dior (Galliano era) – Medieval flourishes
Balenciaga (Ghesquière & Gvasalia) – Architectural tabards
Givenchy (Waight Keller & Tisci) – Sleek, sideless vests
Jean Paul Gaultier – Punk-meets-medieval
Chanel (Lagerfeld era) – Byzantine references
left to right: Jean Paul Gaultier and Tory Burch Resort
Experimental and Trailblazing
Alexander McQueen – Armor-like couture tabards
Iris van Herpen – Futuristic sculptural forms
Rick Owens – Monastic and gothic variations
Yohji Yamamoto – Oversized, layered silhouettes
Comme des Garçons – Sculptural and unconventional
Minimalist & Conceptual
Helmut Lang – Urban, streamlined tabards
Maison Margiela – Deconstructed, sideless garments
Jil Sander – Structured minimalism
Issey Miyake – Pleated fluidity
Modern Runway
Haider Ackermann – Sleek, open-sided tailoring
Dries Van Noten – Historic layering
Loewe (Jonathan Anderson era) – Asymmetric medieval forms
Ann Demeulemeester – Romantic, flowing layers
Craig Green – Workwear silhouettes
Boris Bidjan-Workwear-meets-skating and snowboarding silhouettes
Left: Loewe (Jonathan Anderson era) and Right: Kenzo
Boris Bidjan-2018 Tabard and apron meets workwear
The Knit Tabard Trend
Open-sided knit sweaters with side ties are everywhere—from luxury runways to indie Etsy shops. Designers who’ve embraced the knit version include:
Avant-Garde & Conceptual
Rick Owens – Draped, monastic knit tabards
Comme des Garçons – Deconstructed knitwear
Yohji Yamamoto – Asymmetric, oversized knits
Maison Margiela – Raw edges and ribbon closures
Luxury & Contemporary and Streetwear & Indie
Loewe – Wrap ties and sculptural shapes
Chloé (Gabriela Hearst era) – Textured artisan knits
Isabel Marant – Relaxed French layering
Acne Studios – Laced open-sides
Eckhaus Latta – Experimental construction
JW Anderson – Draped knit reinventions
Helmut Lang (post-Lang) – Asymmetric simplicity
The Etsy Edition: Handcrafted Tabards & Tie-Side Sweaters
Looking for something one-of-a-kind? Etsy is a treasure trove of indie designers crafting sideless sweaters and vest-like tabards. Popular styles include:
Chunky knits with side ties – Cozy and adjustable
Minimalist designs – Capsule wardrobe staples
Eco-conscious fabrics – Recycled wool, organic cotton
Boho & cottagecore – Soft palettes, artisanal details
Search terms like “Tie Side Sweater Vest” or “Open Side Sweater” will lead you to a range of handmade options.
So…does the tabard make you rethink your wardrobe?It’s stylish, historical, practical, and endlessly remixable. Whether you’re into high fashion, slow fashion, or something in between, the tabard has something to offer. I know my wardrobe has several and given my obsession I know more are likely in the future.
Next time: How I am tying the tabard project together- update on what is has been happening behind the seams...( see what I did there?)
-Val
Beautifully written, informative, and illustrated..